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Boiler Repair & Service in Bellingham, MA

Hot-water and steam boiler repair for Bellingham and MetroWest — gas and oil, every make, with a quote before any work begins.

Hannon Heating & Air Conditioning repairs hot-water and steam boilers in Bellingham, MA and across MetroWest — gas and oil, every make. Boilers heat most of the older homes in this area, and we work on them all winter. You get a plain-English diagnosis and a quote before any work begins, and emergency service is available. That covers Milford, Hopedale, and Uxbridge along with the rest of MetroWest.

The Boiler Problems We See Most

Most boiler calls come down to a short list of parts. Circulator pumps die, so the boiler fires while the baseboards stay cold. Zone valves stick, so one thermostat calls for heat and nothing answers. Air works its way into a loop and blocks the flow — that gurgling zone is airbound, and it needs a purge, not a new boiler. Expansion tanks get waterlogged, pressure climbs, and the relief valve starts spitting. Aquastats drift, and the boiler runs too cool or short cycles. Every one of these is a targeted repair we make constantly, and our vans carry circulators, zone valves, and relief valves for the common systems. One cold zone almost always means one small failed part; tell us what it's doing and we'll quote the fix before touching anything.

Weil-McLain boiler with a Beckett burner mid-install in an older basement, brass and copper piping overhead

Leaks: Which Drips Are Minor and Which Mean Shut It Down

Water under a boiler has a range of meanings. A relief valve that drips now and then usually points at expansion-tank trouble or overpressure, and a weeping fitting or valve packing is a routine fix. Water seeping from the boiler sections themselves is the serious one: a cracked or corroded section can't be patched, and it is time to talk boiler replacement. Whatever the source, the wrong response is to keep feeding the system water. Fresh water carries oxygen and minerals, so constantly topping off a leaking boiler quietly corrodes it from the inside while hiding the evidence. Find the leak, fix the leak.

Boiler Noises, Decoded

Banging or gurgling when the heat starts is usually trapped air in the loops, and bleeding or purging the zones clears it. A light ticking from the baseboards is metal expanding as hot water arrives, and it is normal. The noises that earn a service call: a rumble or kettling sound from the boiler itself, which means scale on the heat exchanger is flashing water to steam; banging that arrives together with a cold zone; or any boom or whump when the burner lights, which means ignition is delayed and the burner needs service now, especially on oil.

Boiler Quit on a Freezing Night? Start Here

Run this list before you call. It solves a surprising share of no-heat calls.

  • Thermostat: set to HEAT, setpoint above room temperature, fresh batteries.
  • Breaker: check the boiler's circuit in the panel.
  • The emergency switch at the top of the basement stairs — it looks like a light switch and gets flipped by mistake.
  • Oil heat: check the tank gauge. An empty tank is the most common "breakdown" there is.
  • Burner locked out? Press the reset button ONCE, and only once. Every extra press pumps more unburned oil into the chamber, and that oil can ignite all at once — a puff-back that coats the basement in soot.

Still no heat? Call (508) 282-1000. Emergency service is available; we pick up when we can, and when we miss you, we call right back. While you wait, open cabinet doors on exterior-wall plumbing and let those faucets drip so the pipes don't freeze. An annual oil burner cleaning each fall is the cheapest insurance against a night like this.

No heat or no cooling? Emergency service is available.

Call (508) 282-1000 — we pick up when we can, and if we miss you we call right back.

Frequently Asked Questions

The boiler fires up but the house isn't getting warm — what's going on?
Heat is being made but not moved, which points at circulation. The usual culprits are a dead circulator pump, an airbound loop, a stuck zone valve, low system pressure, or an aquastat keeping the water too cool. Our diagnostic walks that exact chain: pressure, pump, valves, then controls. Most of these are same-visit fixes with parts from the van.
Is water leaking from my boiler an emergency?
It depends where the water comes from. A drip at the relief valve or a weeping fitting is worth a prompt call but rarely urgent. Steady water from the boiler's body or jacket means shut the system off and call, because a cracked section can't be patched. And don't keep topping the system off for weeks; fresh water corrodes the boiler from the inside.
Why is one zone or one floor cold while the rest of the house is fine?
One cold zone usually means one small failed part: air trapped in that loop, a stuck zone valve, or a dead circulator on systems with a pump per zone. It is one of the most common repairs we make and typically a quick, targeted fix. If the same zone goes airbound every season, there's a leak or air-intake problem worth finding rather than re-purging forever.
What pressure should my boiler sit at, and why does it keep dropping?
A typical residential hot-water boiler sits around 12 to 15 psi cold. Pressure that keeps falling means water is escaping somewhere — a small leak, a bad fill valve, or a waterlogged expansion tank pushing it out the relief valve. Topping it off hides the symptom while oxygen-rich fresh water corrodes the boiler, so have the cause found.
Why do my pipes and baseboards bang or gurgle when the heat comes on?
Gurgling is trapped air moving through the loops, and banging is usually the same air or water hammer at a valve; a proper purge clears most of it. Light ticking as baseboards warm up is normal expansion. Rumbling from the boiler itself is scale flashing water to steam, and that one deserves a service visit.
My boiler quit on the coldest night of the year — what do I do while help is coming?
Run the quick checks first: thermostat, breaker, the switch at the top of the basement stairs, and the oil gauge, with one press of the reset button at most. Then call (508) 282-1000 — emergency service is available; we pick up when we can, and when we miss you, we call right back. Keep bedroom doors open, let faucets on outside walls drip, and run a space heater on its own outlet, away from anything that burns.

Ready to Get the Heat Back?

Call with what the system is doing — you'll talk to the person who does the work, and most repairs finish in one visit.

Mon-Fri 7am-5pm · Emergency Service Available